Woolman, J., Greenfingers – an autobiography of John Woolman, Shirley, Warwickshire, Eclipse Printers, 1967.
Brookman, L. A., University of Birmingham, School for Lifelong Learning, Level 2 Garden History 2003.
Crane, D. B., Chrysanthemums for Garden and Greenhouse. London, W H & L Collingridge, 1909.
Molyneux, E., Chrysanthemums and their Culture, Fourth Edition, London, 1889, p42 and others.
The Chrysanthemum Annual, National Chrysanthemum Society, Merton Surrey, 1887
The Chrysanthemum, The Chrysanthemum Press Ltd., London 1953 Vol 3 No 4.
Woolman, J. F., Hospital Ship, Brewin Books, Studley, 2001.
Woolmans first ever newsletter - January, 1952
This being the first of our monthly News Letters, we would like to take the opportunity for a short introduction to our readers. We shall endeavour to give you useful hints to help you grow your plants of our main specialities, Chrysanthemums, Begonias and Dahlias. This will not be just another magazine, but something more personal, giving basic facts and hints which cannot be obtained from a more general type of publication. We want you to help us too, if it does not tell you what you want to know, write and tell us. It is only thus that we can satisfy the needs of our readers. In the top corner is our mascot and Trade Mark, Curly from Shirley; and we want you to know that whenever you see him he represents Woolmans, and Woolmans not only means plants, but the very necessary service which we think should go with them. We do not simply want to sell you Chrysanthemums etc,. but to help you to get from them those best results which we know they are capable of giving. This Bulletin is one of the aspects of this service, and we wish you to use it as such. Do not forget, whatever you want to know about Chrysanthemums ask CURLY from SHIRLEY.
Two factors should be watched for, 1. mildew on the leaves, if bad, spray with a proprietary fungicide, and 2. after rooting, some of the cuttings may form premature buds; quite a common occurrence in the early part of the season, especially in certain varieties; if the bud is pinched out they break away quite satisfactorily and make a normal plant, only one stem being grown on, and that bud and pinch being ignored from the stopping point of view. Your cuttings should root within three to four weeks; they then are ready for potting into 3 ½” pots, as also are plants which you may have received this month. A good mixture for 1st potting is six parts turfy loam, one and a half parts leaf mould or peat, half part sharp sand, all having been through a 1/2 “ riddle. To each cwt. add a 3 ½” pot of slaked lime. Place one or two pieces of broken crock over the drainage hole, and pot up firmly. After a couple of weeks a temperature of around 45 degrees F. is best.
Early flowering varieties in the stool stage, having been cut down and boxed up, should by now be starting, in most cases, to throw cuttings. The following if required for exhibition from mid August to mid Sept. should be taken in Jan., if a heated greenhouse is available – Shirley Cream and Yellow Shirley Cream, Migoli, The Zenith family, The Charter family, Snow Princess, Empire White and Empire Primrose, Alfreton Masterpiece, Wm. Mayden, Serenus, Tempest, Typhoon, The Una family, Wm. Greenyer, Perfection, Mayford Triumph, Marehay Silvertop, Snow Queen, Royal Prince and Royal Pink. Stop these the middle of April if not broken by then. Make adjustment in rooting for later Shows. The stools already boxed can be cut down to a stem length of about 6”. In general, the hints given for the indoor varieties apply, such as not overwatering etc.
Begonias These are by now in the dormant stage. A periodic inspection will ensure that they are not rotting. Keep the tubers loose in a pot or box rather than cover them with sand; this allows easy access for inspection. They should feel solid and plump between the finger and thumb, not too dry nor too moist causing them to rot. If shrivelling a little, a light spray may be necessary to freshen them, but only if it is really essential. If too wet spread out loosely allowing access of air. There may still be a small piece of the old stem adhering to the tuber. This, if not removed, will rot, and spread to the tuber; it should be broken out as soon as possible. Soil may be prepared, for boxing the tubers next month; a suitable mixture is one part each of loam, leaf mould or peat, and a half part of coarse sand, all passed through a ½“ riddle.
Dahlias Basically the particulars mentioned for Begonias also apply to Dahlias at this time of the year. Periodic inspection will help to discover rotting; too much moisture is detrimental. If any rotting tissue is discovered, cut it away completely, dust the wound with flowers of sulphur.
General Hints Pots should be washed, houses and benches cleaned down, any odd repairs carried out, check your supplies of sand, turf for soil, fertilizer, labels, canes etc. If you have not already done so, order your plants for the next season. Any digging not done in the Autumn should be cleared up whenever the weather allows.
We have available November indoor single, and early outdoor single flowering Chrysanthemum seed. The former primarily for pot culture, at 2/6d. per packet, the latter for garden display at 1/6d. per packet. We shall be pleased to forward any of this. Also remember our 50 page catalogue, illustrated in colour with stopping and timing key, cultural hints etc. The book on Chrysanthemum culture, price 4/6d. and Begonia culture, price 3/-d. and Novelty List of new Seedlings now ready.